Mowing
Newly sodded lawns should not be mowed for about two weeks. Be
sure to keep the mower blades sharp. Established lawns should be
mowed once a week. Cutting your lawn frequently will encourage a
thick, dense turf that resists weeds.
There are several good reasons to set your mower blades on the
high side. A plant can’t have a strong root system unless
it has a strong leaf growth. Cutting too short leads to weak roots
that have difficulty absorbing water and nutrients. Close cutting
can also injure the plants which will slow the rate of growth and
reduce vigour. Mowing at the proper height is also the first line
of defense against the invasion of weeds, and it is the first cultural
practice you should adopt if you want your grass to crowd out some
of the weeds already there. Lawn grasses are very competitive, and
only a few weeds can successfully outgrow them. Most weeds either
can’t get enough light or soil space, or they can’t
take the continuous mowing. It is in weak, thin lawns that weeds
thrive and cutting too short weakens lawns, especially in hot weather.
Mow every 5 days during the cooler spring months when the grass
is growing quickly, gradually changing to every 7 to 10 days when
hot weather slows the grass down, and then resume more frequent
mowing in the fall. Let the rate of grass growth, not the calendar,
dictate your schedule. When the grass is growing fast, 8 to 10 day
intervals between mowings can leave a lot of clippings, most of
which must be removed or you’ll soon have a thatch problem.
Grass clippings that result from mowing at correct intervals can
be left to rot and add organic matter to the soil. Clippings that
dry out and interfere with new growth should be removed, piled to
make compost, and returned to the lawn in that form. Finally, don’t
mow a wet lawn unless a long rainy spell forces you to. Wet clippings
jam the mower and clump together on the lawn in messy piles. A mulching
mover eliminates the need to remove clippings and at the same time
benefits the lawn.
Before mowing long grass, rake in opposite direction you intend
to mow. Cut the lawn taller in hot dry periods and shorter in cool
wet weather. Try not to remove more than 40%, of the leaf area in
any one mowing. The quality of the cut may be improved if the lawn
mowing pattern is varied. One week it should be mowed in one direction
then crosswise the next, then at an angle and so on.
DO NOT roll the lawn with a heavy
roller in spring; it causes compaction which hinders air and moisture
penetration and can cause pooling. Stay off the lawn as the frost
melts and the ground is wet.
DO NOT rake the lawn hard. Rake
LIGHTLY with a fan rake. The first application of high nitrogen
fertilizer will break down the brown “thatch” into valuable
humus.
DO NOT top dress the lawn with
top soil or manure; they both can introduce broadleaf weeds and
weed grasses. Instead use ‘Pro-Mix’ or ‘Top-Dresser’.
NEXT: Special Lawn Problems
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